Thursday, October 27, 2016

101 Dimethicones


Image result for hair pictures

The debate over dimethicones is going strong. On one hand, they are to be completely avoided at all cost. But on the other hand, they're not as bad as they are portrayed. I have, to be honest. I didn't' know a lot about silicones and dimethicones nor the effects they had on hair. I did some research and now I'm going to share what I learned with you.


Dimethicones is a silicone oil, which is also known as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) and it's used in a lot of health and beauty products. It is an emulsifier (which means it keeps ingredients from separating) and a moisturizer that is a highly effective additive to skin and hair products.

Dimethicones are often found in shampoo, conditioner, leave-in conditioner, and detangling products. Acting as an emulsifier, dimethicones keeps other ingredients better mixed thus helping the product coat the hair strands more evenly. Once the hair is coated with the product containing dimethicones, problems like knots, snags, curls and frizz can be easily managed.

How to spot a cone:


Look at the ingredients of the product label thoroughly. Silicones are often hard to pronounce and have a super long name.  To spot the cones, look for anything ending with "cone", "col", "conol", or "zane".

Good or Bad?


Silicone will weigh the hair down making it limp, lifeless, and with time, very dull. It prevents moisture from penetrating the hair shaft and becomes like a magnet for dirt and other ingredients. So in essence, we get a good shine for a couple of days, but over time it will attract more buildup on the hair. With time it will dry the hair out because it won't allow in the conditioner and it ends up sitting on the surface. Due to lack of moisture, the hair will become very brittle and could lead to frizz and breakage.” —Shai Amiel, Celebrity Hairstylist & Owner, CAPELLA Salon

Dimethicones/silicones get a bad rap but the truth of the matter is they are not as bad as they are made out to be. There are exceptions to the rules when it comes to silicones and using silicones can actually be part of a good hair care regimen.  You just need to understand which silicone does what.

Here's a video demonstrating what bad silicones can do to your hair:


Not all created equal...


Bad: Non -Water soluble


Silicones offer great slip for detangling and combating frizz. Most silicones are not water-soluble and cause buildup and weighs the hair down. Individuals who are prone to having oily hair should restrict the use of products the contain this chemical because it can weigh the hair down or make it look overly greasy. The non-water soluble silicones are known as "bad silicones".  There are silicones that are water soluble that slow down the build up process.


Good: Water soluble


 “A water-soluble silicone means that it is able to dissolve in water. It is a silicone that is easy to wash out of the hair and doesn't leave a heavy build up. Look for products containing Cyclomethicone. This is the most commonly used silicone in hair care products and it does everything Silicone promises to do, but won’t leave build up on the hair. Dimethicone Copolyol is water soluble, too. It’s a bit more pricey, but it’s lightweight and leaves very little build up.” —Bridget Brager


Water soluble silicones:

(No build up)

  1. Stearoxy Dimethicone.
  2. Behenoxy Dimethicone.
  3. Dimethicone copolyol.
  4. Hydrolyzed wheat protein.
  5. Lauryl methicone copolyol.
  6. Silicone with PEG listed before it.

Slightly soluble:

(May cause build up over a period of time. Can be easily co-washed)

  1. Amodimethicone
  2. Behenoxy dimethicone.
  3. Cyclomethicone.
  4. Cyclohexasiloxane.
  5. Stearoxy dimethicone.

Non-water soluble:

(Doesn't dissolve in water. Worst silicones and cause build up quickly. Avoid these if at all possible.)
  1. Dimethicone.
  2. Cetyl dimethicone.
  3. Cetearyl methicone.
  4. Stearyl dimethicone.
  5. Dimethiconol.
  6. Trimethylsilylamodimethicone.
  7. Phenyl Trimethicone.
Image result for hair pictures

Getting Rid of Build Up...



If you use products with silicones especially the ones that contain non-water soluble dimethicones, you need to get a good clarifying shampoo.  Wash your hair at least once a week to manage the build up. Be sure to follow with a deep conditioner because clarifying shampoos strip the hair of all products and natural oils.  If you use silicones often, it's suggested to look for shampoos containing cocamidopropylbetaine to rid your hair of silicones. Some individuals add baking soda to their regular shampoo. Apple cider vinegar rinses also are an option.

Here's how do do ACV rinse.



Bottom Line...


All silicones are not bad news, but as with everything, silicones products should be used in moderation based oh how they react with your hair. You have the freedom to choose if you want to use products with silicone. There's no right or wrong answer. Listen to your hair. If  it works for you, go for it. If your hair hates it. Put the product back on the shelf, and continue your quest to find the perfect product with your new found knowledge.

Thinking of going silicone free? Click below:








Sources:
http://www.nenonatural.com/hair-blog/-water-soluble-vs-non-soluble-silicones-found-in-hair-products

http://coveteur.com/2015/10/06/silicone-hair-products/
http://www.xovain.com/hair/silicones-in-hair-and-skin-products-to-avoid
http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/kinky-hair-type-4a/silicones-good-bad-the-ugly/


Comment. Share. Ask. I want to hear from you.

Hair: Curly ponytail
Emotion: Relaxed

No comments:

Post a Comment